Genesis for the Art Deco movement came from a world fair in Paris
France, The
Exposition des Arts Decoratifs et Industrials.
The
Art Deco era eschewed the feminine designs of the Edwardian era for
the bold geometric designs of a modern world. An industrial age,
more and more people were driving cars, flying in planes and
generally leading a more modern life. This change could be seen in
the artistic movements of the time: Bauhaus, Cubism, Empire
Neoclassicism and Futurism.
It
was also an era that looked to the rest of the world for inspiration.
Like Picasso and many other artists, jewelers drew inspiration from
the Ancient Aztecs, Egyptians, Tribal Africa, American Indians, Asia
as well as Greek and Roman architecture.
Jewelers
also looked to society for inspiration. The 1920's were a time of
great change. World War I had just ended and women had a new place
in the world. They had the right to vote and many had moved into the
work place for the first time. It was also the era known as “The
Roaring Twenties”: The era of F. Scott Fitzgerald and the Great
Gatsby.
Women
wore high hemmed, sleeveless tunic dresses to dance the Charleston.
With their arms newly exposed, women wore bracelets, bangles and
watches. Some wore bracelets high on the arm. Others piled them on
the wrist. Beautiful line bracelets, were the thing, encrusted with
diamonds and accented with synthetic rubies, sapphires and emeralds.
Also the cocktail watch was in, as was anything cocktail, to those
rebelling from the strictures of the prohibition movement.
Dresses
were often backless and women wore long sautoirs and as well as
strands of pearls down their exposed back. With the trend for short
bobbed hair, many women wore long dangle earrings.
The
jewelry was visually clean and geometric with bold, architectural
shapes as well as striking contrasting colors. Diamonds were often
paired with black onyx, bold rubies and deep blue sapphires. The
stones were set in platinum, palladium and white gold for the "white
look". Other popular stones were emeralds, coral, ivory, jade,
mother of pearl and quartz crystal.
Style
Moderne, as the Art Deco era was then termed, to this day is one
of the most enduring striking and collectible eras of jewelry. The
good pieces are known to draw triple their appraisal price at auction
because of their rarity and enduring beauty.
